Julia Momosé has taken a larger role at Kumiko. | Jack X. Li/Eater Chicago

Star bartender Julia Momosé has stepped up in the kitchen as her bar vies for a James Beard Award.

Back on Wednesday, April 2 — the day the James Beard Foundation awards committee named Kumiko a 2025 finalist for Outstanding Bar — owner Julia Momosé found herself in a tight spot — literally.

“I was switching out an air filter in a little crawl space at Kumiko,” she recalls. “One of my business partners was calling me, and I had all these texts from people.”

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